Arabic kohl: Preserving heritage amid capitalist modernity

Arabic kohl is a symbol of authentic heritage, celebrated for its use of al-ethmad (Antimony) stone, one of the finest natural kohl varieties, valued for both its cosmetic appeal and therapeutic properties.

BARA’A JALI

Raqqa - Despite the global shift toward chemically based cosmetics, which often carry harmful side effects, many elderly women continue to prefer traditional Arabic kohl—one of the oldest beautification methods used by women throughout history.

 

While capitalist modernity has introduced chemical compounds into cosmetic production, older women favor traditional methods, believing them safer, free of side effects, and beneficial for the skin. They argue that modern products, despite their popularity, can damage the skin due to synthetic ingredients.

 

Arabic kohl, celebrated in folk songs and poetry, has historically been used not only for beautification but also for health purposes. Its origins date back to around 3500 BCE, practiced by multiple civilizations, including the ancient Egyptians. Traditionally, kohl is made at home, with preparation knowledge passed from grandmothers to mothers and daughters—a deeply rooted chain of cultural and aesthetic heritage.

 

Kohl preserves cultural heritage

 

Awsh Al-Mahn, a woman in her seventies, prefers Arabic kohl over modern cosmetics. She says, “Kohl has long symbolized female beauty. I started making and using it at twelve, learning the craft from my mother, an expert in Traditional medicine. This tradition remains alive; I still make and use it today.”

 

Arabic kohl is made from al-ethmad stone (Antimony Stone), heated until it cracks, then ground with small gravel before being packaged for use. Awsh explains, “Making kohl takes only a few seconds. I knead flour, add al-ethmad stone with a little vegetable oil for proper burning, then grind and sieve it for smoothness—then it’s ready to enhance the eyes.”

 

Kohl made from al-ethmad is both healthy and beautifying, nourishing eyelashes naturally and even aiding in treating non-genetic hair loss.

 

Benefits for eye health

 

Awsh Al-Mahn notes its many benefits: strengthening vision, alleviating weak eyesight, treating eye infections and severe allergies, thickening eyelashes, and boosting immunity against inflammations. It is also used for newborns to clean their eyes and remove impurities.

 

She advises women and girls, “Use traditional kohl made by hand—it gives beauty and radiance, making the eyes sparkle, especially with traditional Arabic and Habari attire.” She cautions against modern cosmetics, which contain harmful chemical substances.